Plan your
facilities before you take delivery of birds. Try to set out goals of what you expect to
achieve, preferably for several years in advance, and then prepare your plan accordingly.Ostrich Facilities... for young chicks, yearlings, adults
Manual Menu | Section:
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 |
Plan your
facilities before you take delivery of birds. Try to set out goals of what you expect to
achieve, preferably for several years in advance, and then prepare your plan accordingly.
You can easily
make use of existing facilities, but you need to consider how these fit into your overall
design layout. Look ahead, and plan locations for breeding pens, chick pens, isolation and
quarantine pens, incubation and hatching areas, and grow out pens.
Access and
ease of movement into and between pens is critical for unloading birds from a trailer, for
internal movement of birds from grow out pens to breeding pens, and for the movement of
equipment to clean barns. Incorporate interconnected alleyways and gates between pens to
allow for easy separation of birds, easy movement of personnel, and access for equipment.
This can not be stressed enough. Proper planning can save much labor later. It is more
difficult to re-construct pens or fence lines at a later date, when birds are already in
place. Later re-construction can also cause undue bird stress, which may cause
breeders to quit laying.
Build your
facilities away from noise sources such as traffic, noisy work sites, etc. Try to avoid
areas with stagnant water or garbage that could be sources for mosquitoes and bacteria.
The site
should preferably have sandy soil, good drainage away from buildings, and shelter from
strong winds. Trees can provide windbreak and shade, but can also create difficulties with
fallen leaves and small branches. Shade cloth is a good windbreak alternative. Wet areas
can lead to slippery ice surfaces during winter.
Consider the
need for electricity, a good water source, and possibly gas or propane.
When designing
facilities, be sure to incorporate the physical features of bio security - IE: your farm's
procedure for preventing and eliminating biological contamination. Points to consider
include limiting visitor access, separating incubation/hatching area from other
facilities, providing for disinfection, and insuring that movement of personnel flows from
young to old, and from healthy to sick, etc.
Facility
design for breeder birds should incorporate features that ensure the safety of personnel -
in particular features that help personnel to avoid close contact with the breeding
rooster. Even the tamest rooster may suddenly become aggressive during the breeding
season, therefore some precautions should be taken.
Decisions
should be made in the early planning stages of facility design as to whether you plan to
accommodate winter-hatched chicks on your farm. Recognize that raising baby chicks during
the winter requires extra equipment and facilities in order to provide a warm environment,
good ventilation, and adequate indoor exercise. Some producers choose to cut off
production by September to avoid having the extra costs and labor of raising winter
chicks.
It is
recommended that you plan chick barns as an "All In - All Out" facility,
where birds grow up together in the same area without being moved or mixed with others
from other barns. Movement of chicks from one barn to another, should be avoided, or
minimized. Such movement causes undue stress on chicks, and very often results in chick
losses, due to impaction or increased susceptibility to diseases.
An ostrich breeder pair, or trio, needs 7500-15,000 square feet. Younger birds need less space corresponding to their age and size. For small chicks, some use a rule of thumb of 50 square feet per bird. The birds develop better when they have room and are not overcrowded.
60' x 15'
minimum, to 100' x 300'; 50' x 250' is average. Some use pie shapes with 20' wide at
building to 80' wide at the rear, with length up to 250'. The narrowing of pens towards
the barn door also provides a funnel-shaped area that helps when trying to move birds
indoors.
For grow-out
pens with large numbers of birds, or when housing larger groups of breeders (say 10 to
20), the pen size would have to be increased accordingly.
For breeder
pens, make corners at 45 degrees to allow the hen to easily escape from the chasing
rooster. Also provide 6' to 12' alleys between pens to reduce fighting between males.
Otherwise a visual barrier such as a solid wall or shade cloth may be necessary.
Provide means
for personnel to access feeders and waterers, without them having to enter the pen area..
(IE: Feeders should be placed just over the pen fence, or built in-line within the fence,
or placed outside the fence, with access for birds provided through feeding stanchions.)
Breeder pens
should be located away from chick pens and grow out facilities, as the sight and sound of
young chicks has been known to distract breeder birds enough that they quit laying.
The runs can
have sand or dirt, various varieties of grass, alfalfa, or clover.
Safety
precautions: Escape routes in breeder pens should be provided, in the form of
man- gates, or you can leave a gap of 16" to 18" from the ground to the bottom
of the fence - tall enough for a man to roll out beneath the fence. (This gap, of course,
is not suitable for small chick pens) A no-cost method of creating man-gates is to
leave a gap between the building and the first post, that is wide enough for a man
to enter, but is too narrow for an adult bird to walk through. (Such gaps should
not be so narrow that birds risk getting their necks caught). When using these types
of man-gates for grow-out chick pens, be sure to enclose them temporarily when chicks are
still small.
Young chicks
should be placed in facilities that will accommodate them until they are 4-5 months of
age. Movement of young chicks should be avoided as much as possible, in order to reduce
stress.
Outdoor pens
sizes should be gradually increased with age, keeping in mind the rule-of-thumb of 50
square feet per bird.
Younger chicks
have to be separated into groups of approximately similar size, to avoid injuries to the
smaller chicks by the bigger/older ones. From about 8 months to 18 months birds are of
approximately similar height so that they can be held together in the same pen. Large
outside pens can be cordoned of with temporary fencing (shade cloth or plastic netting)
for very young chicks, separating them into groups that vary no more than 4 weeks in age.
As chicks grow, temporary fencing can be removed to extend pen space. Once chicks reach
4-5 months of age, age difference becomes less of an issue, and some pens can be
amalgamated, giving chicks access to a larger space.
Plastic fence,
and wind break can be used to create temporary divisions in outdoor pens. Note that very
young chicks can easily get out through the holes in game-wire fencing (and small
predators can get in). When chicks are small, you need to temporarily block the bottom
1-1/2 to 2 feet of this kind of fencing.
It is
important to build fences that are smooth and flexible to reduce risk of injury to the
ostrich. The fencing should allow some give when run at by a bird, but should not sag. It
should not have any projections or sharp corners.
From about six
months of age onward, fencing should preferably be 5' to 6' in height. Material could be
chain link, 2 x 4 non-climb wire, game fence, etc.
Perimeter
fencing, around the outer edges of your pen areas, should extend right to the ground,
and be at least 5 to 6 feet high. This outer fence then acts as a barrier against
predators (dogs, coyotes), and prevents birds from escaping.
Posts,
wherever possible, should be located on the outside of the pens with the fence on the
inside, particularly for older birds, to avoid getting their wings or neck caught on the
post or between post and fence. No narrow gaps should be left between posts and gates, or
between posts and buildings, because birds can easily get their necks caught and hang
themselves in these narrow spaces. Wherever such gaps are unavoidable, fill them in with a
2x4, or other construction material.
Adult breeder birds should be provided with a minimum of 60-80 square feet per bird in indoor pens. Younger birds need less indoor space per bird - if outdoor exercise room is adequately provided, you can use a general rule-of-thumb of approximately 20-30 square feet per chick for indoor pens.
Although ostriches thrive in all types of climates and adult birds can withstand cold temperatures to -10·F, they need shelter from extreme weather, and from the wind. Although, some producers provide heated barns for breeders, good success has been achieved with the use of inexpensive greenhouse facilities and bale barns for shelter and warmth.
Provide for
safety and handling requirements feeders and
waterers should be serviceable from outside the pen. plan door
openings (or door opening mechanisms) in such a way, that doors are easily opened and
closed from outside the pen area. This allows for safe separation of rooster from
personnel during egg collection, and provides for easer sorting and handling. (Remember
that you will want the occasional day(s) away from the farm - therefore any occasional
help brought in to relieve you should feel comfortable with your egg collection and bird
handling procedures!) plan an area to
examine birds, e.g. a squeeze that protects both you and the bird. An in-pen squeeze can
be made inexpensively by attaching a sheeted swing gate to the side of the pen, near a
corner. When not in use, the swing gate stays securely fastened to the wall. When needed
the gate swings open to a 90·, or greater angle, toward the corner, making a u-shaped or
triangular squeeze area. Provide water
with a heat source to keep it from freezing during winter. This also insures proper intake
of water - as ostrich seem to prefer drinking water that is not ice cold. An economical
way of doing this, is to place a 250 watt water heater in a 5 gallon pail. Provide good
lighting and ventilation. Plan indoor pen
space based on barn size and number of birds in each pen. A pair should have a minimum of
10' x 12', a trio 12 x 16'. Larger spaces are always preferable. Doors should be
wide enough for birds to go in and out freely. 36" is absolute minimum, 4' to 5' is
desirable. Sideways sliding, split swing and overhead doors are the most common. The most common
flooring or substrate used for juveniles and breeders is natural soil or sand, with a good
straw cover for bedding (warmth and absorption).Note: Incubator and hatching facilities are dealt with in a separate section.
It is recommended that you plan chick barns as an "All In - All Out" facility, where birds grows up together in the same area without being moved or mixed with others from other barns. Movement of chicks from one barn to another, should be avoided, or minimized. Such movement causes undue stress on chicks, and very often results in loss of chicks, due to impaction or increased susceptibility to diseases.
In our northern Canadian climate, inside space for chicks becomes very important in the colder season, as chicks need a warm environment for the first 3-4 months of age. They also need room to exercise or run. Since they grow very quickly, you must plan your facilities so that chicks have access to more space when need ed. This can be done by cordoning off a full sized pen for small chicks, then later lengthening, and/or widening, the pen as the chicks grow.
Space or pen
size depends on the number of birds in a group, their size or age, and whether they have
outdoor exercise room. For the first 4 weeks an 8' x 12' area may accommodate up to 12
chicks. Thereafter, space needs to be increased, as chicks grow. Keep in mind the rule of
thumb of 20-30 sq ft per chick indoors, providing that adequate additional outdoor pen
space is also provided (see above).
Good
ventilation is essential.
Flooring or
substrate options are listed below:
| Type | Advantages | Disadvantages |
| Cement | Easy to clean Reduces incidence of intestinal impaction |
Very expensive. Surface is cold. Non-cushioned surfaces contribute to leg and feet problems. Can get slippery when wet. |
| Cement with plastic matting cover, or rubberized coatings | Relatively easy to clean Reduces incidence of intestinal impaction Surface is warmer, more cushioned, and less slippery than cement alone. |
Even more expensive than cement alone.
Bacterial growth under matts must be prevented. Matting has to be replaced periodically, although fixed rubberized coatings are more long-term |
| Sand or natural soil | Inexpensive Natural cushioned surface |
Sand or soil has to be replaced
periodically, to prevent bacterial growth. Stressed birds may peck at and eat the sand or soil, resulting in intestinal impaction |
| Straw | Inexpensive. Absorptive. Provides warmth. |
Straw has to be replaced periodically, to
prevent bacterial growth. Stressed birds may peck at and eat the straw, resulting in intestinal impaction. |
| Earth Mat or Wind Screen, placed on sand or dirt | Can be used over dirt, sand, or cement. Can be easily cleaned. Water passes through it. |
Must be replaced periodically. If material is not dense enough, it can allow sand or dirt to sift upwards through the surface. |
Common heat
sources are:
Temperature in
barns must be maintained at 75-80·F for very young chicks, but can decrease to 40·F by
the time the chicks are 3 months old.
Walls should
be washable at least for the first 4 feet above the floor to keep the room clean.
The rooms
should be bright and well lit, preferably with larger windows to let in the sun.